Pamukkale and Hierapolis. Turkey. Day 7.
More pictures of ancient ruins coming up! Er, though judging by the response (or lack of) from the last post on Ephesus, not many people seemed to be interested in viewing photos and reading about ancient ruins.
Pamukkale
Pamukkale. The *open* area where visitors are allowed to walk and dip in the pools
Expecting pictures of nice white travertine pools and blue waters cascading down? Well, don't hold your breath because there aren't any. At least not for now since there is construction work being carried out by the local council to beautify the place.
All dried up
Yeah, I was expecting to be able to take those beautiful pictures as seen in the magazines and websites promoting Pamukkale or also known as White Cotton Castle. But luck wasn't on my side this time. The construction work will end by end of this year according to the banner. So, to see Pamukkale in its full glory, I suggest you wait a year or so before heading there.
Terraces which still have water flowing
That said, I still enjoyed being there. There is nothing like seeing this World Heritage site, a white calcium formation on the side of a ridge. When warm mineral water flows down the edge of a cliff, it cools down and deposits its calcium content, which will form the pools, terraces and stalacites that you see.
View of the pools with construction work at the background
You can see massive beautification work going on as you walk about. In the 80s, hotels that were built above the site drained away the water and dirtied the place, replacing the once pristine white pools with a sad copy of itself. Realising the detrimental effect tourism had on the site, the hotels were torn down and the place is currently being restored back to its former glory.
The pools and terraces. Imagine what it would be like when they are restored.
Tourists can still go walking on the calcium terraces and take a dip in the pools at the designated sites although some of the pools are artificial. Some places are fenced off due to the construction work. Just remember, take off your shoes! ALthough this will be a bit painful as the ridges of the calcium cuts into your soles. This place is opened 24 hours, so you can visit during sunset or sunrise for those spectacular photo shots.
The ruins of the ancient Roman city: Hierapolis
Pamukkale Thermal
If you really want to go dipping or swimming in the mineral water, then head towards Pamukkale thermal, which is situated nearby, on the grounds of Hierapolis. This is swimming with a difference as there are submerged ruins of marble colums strewn about in the pool. My friend went for a swim. I didnt. Too lazy to change.
Roman Theater at Hierapolis
View of the plains from the theater
Pamukkale is surrounded by the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Hierapolis. It appears to be founded by Eumenes II, King of Pergamum. The site is still being excavated and certain areas are roped off. From the top of the Roman Theater, you will have a magnificient view of Pamukkale and the plains below. This theater can seat up to 12 000 people and have been built by Emperor Hadrian and Septimius Severus.
The Domitian (Northern) Gate
Frontinus Street and the Latrine on the left
We then walked back to the car and drove towards the necropolis area. Before exploring the necropolis site, we stopped at the ruins of Frontinus Street. The Arch of the Domitian is situated at the northern end of the street (hence "Northern Gate")According to the signboard placed before the Domitian gate: The Roman Proconsul of Asia, Julius Sextus Frontinus dedicated this gate to the Roman Emperor Domitian.
The Latrine
At the side of the Frontinus Street you will see a row of columns which is a part of the Latrine. According to the signboard, word for word: The building was found in a state of collapse, caused by an earthquake, that has allowed its almost complete reconstruction (I have no idea what this sentence means). The building was reached by a entrance through the two side doors. The room is divided longitudinally by a row of colums that supported a roof composed of travertine blocks. Along the two long sides ran a drain sluicing the liquids into the cloaca beneath the Frontinus Street. Along the preimeter walls may be seen the groove into which the seats with holes were fitted, and a small channed in which clean running water was available for hygiene. The paving is composed of travertine slabs that display heavy signs of wear. The construction og the building is dated to the end of the first century A.D. Its collapse is dated by the painted inscriptions found on the half-columns of its facade, that bear acclamations to the emperor Justinian. Phew!
The North Byzantine gate. The lady in yellow is standing beneath it
Signboard, my short version: This gate is a part of a fortification system built towards the end of the 4th century. There is another twin gate located at the southern end. There is a circle shape decoration which encloses a cross-like symbol and christian symbols are also found along the facade. Four large marble brackets with heads of lions, panther and a Gorgon, found in front of the gate were used as apotropaic (having the power to prevent evil/bad luck) elements to ward of evil.
Dangerous or not?
We saw this girl who climbed up the Byzantine Gate to have her picture taken. I don't think that was a smart thing to do as these are ruins and are unstable. PLus, once she started, others began to follow.
Necropolis site
The highlight of Hierapolis has to be the huge necropolis (burial) site, which is situated next to a Roman Bath. Tombs of all shapes and sizes rest in this area that stretch on for miles.
Remains of tombs. Necropolis of Hierapolis
The construction of the tombs started out as pit graves, located on the exits of the city area towards the end of the 2nd century BC. Then, it evolved to structures imitating temples and tombs with hypogean (located beneath the earth) burial chambers.
Necropolis
In the 2nd century A.C., sarcophagus were used which were raised up on steps. This funerary rite views the deceased as heroes. From the 4th century A.C. onwards, more and more land were used as burial grounds and some tombs were reused. In the 7th century, a devastating earthquake struck the area and the necropolis was abandoned, later plundered and in the following years were reused as shelter for the livestocks. (Source: signboard at Necropolis site)
Pamukkale from the car
After viewing the necropolis site, we headed back towards our boutique hotel which is really not bad, kind of like a 3 to 4 star hotel with a nice swimming pool (which we swam in the evening).
Sunset from our room's balcony
We then headed off for dinner at night in Denizli at this restaurant which specializes in everything mushroom. Every dish there (except the salad that we ate) were made out of mushrooms. I LOVE mushrooms so I was happy.
Baked cheese mushrooms
These were huge button mushrooms baked in cheese. Delicious. My only complain was that there was not enough to go around. We had another dish of mushrooms cooked with tomato and another with yoghurt.
Mushroom dessert
This was a bizzare dessert, to me at least. Since everything was about mushrooms, the dessert was also made of mushrooms which I think was stewed/cooked in syrup with a hint of lime/orange? Very strange. Not to my taste. The plate was small but we didn't finish it.
Funfair - Crazy dance ride. Woohoo!
Close-up of Crazy Dance
Nah, I didn't sit on it. On our way back to the hotel, we passed by this small funfair being held in Denizli town and we stopped. My two friends went for a ride in the Crazy Dance to the beat of disco/club music. I took pictures instead.
Ferris wheel
I guess we three girls must have made quite a sight among the locals as they were not really used to seeing Asian tourists. So much so that a couple of young guys asked to take a picture with us! And the funny thing is, I didn't see a camera with them and in the end since I was with a camera, I was the one who took the picture of them posing next to my friends! But then later, my friends told me that they had phone cameras. Ah......
Remains of a pillar. Hierapolis.
So, after the fun night, we head back to the hotel to rest for Day 8: Antalya
Pamukkale
Pamukkale. The *open* area where visitors are allowed to walk and dip in the pools
Expecting pictures of nice white travertine pools and blue waters cascading down? Well, don't hold your breath because there aren't any. At least not for now since there is construction work being carried out by the local council to beautify the place.
All dried up
Yeah, I was expecting to be able to take those beautiful pictures as seen in the magazines and websites promoting Pamukkale or also known as White Cotton Castle. But luck wasn't on my side this time. The construction work will end by end of this year according to the banner. So, to see Pamukkale in its full glory, I suggest you wait a year or so before heading there.
Terraces which still have water flowing
That said, I still enjoyed being there. There is nothing like seeing this World Heritage site, a white calcium formation on the side of a ridge. When warm mineral water flows down the edge of a cliff, it cools down and deposits its calcium content, which will form the pools, terraces and stalacites that you see.
View of the pools with construction work at the background
You can see massive beautification work going on as you walk about. In the 80s, hotels that were built above the site drained away the water and dirtied the place, replacing the once pristine white pools with a sad copy of itself. Realising the detrimental effect tourism had on the site, the hotels were torn down and the place is currently being restored back to its former glory.
The pools and terraces. Imagine what it would be like when they are restored.
Tourists can still go walking on the calcium terraces and take a dip in the pools at the designated sites although some of the pools are artificial. Some places are fenced off due to the construction work. Just remember, take off your shoes! ALthough this will be a bit painful as the ridges of the calcium cuts into your soles. This place is opened 24 hours, so you can visit during sunset or sunrise for those spectacular photo shots.
The ruins of the ancient Roman city: Hierapolis
Pamukkale Thermal
If you really want to go dipping or swimming in the mineral water, then head towards Pamukkale thermal, which is situated nearby, on the grounds of Hierapolis. This is swimming with a difference as there are submerged ruins of marble colums strewn about in the pool. My friend went for a swim. I didnt. Too lazy to change.
Roman Theater at Hierapolis
View of the plains from the theater
Pamukkale is surrounded by the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Hierapolis. It appears to be founded by Eumenes II, King of Pergamum. The site is still being excavated and certain areas are roped off. From the top of the Roman Theater, you will have a magnificient view of Pamukkale and the plains below. This theater can seat up to 12 000 people and have been built by Emperor Hadrian and Septimius Severus.
The Domitian (Northern) Gate
Frontinus Street and the Latrine on the left
We then walked back to the car and drove towards the necropolis area. Before exploring the necropolis site, we stopped at the ruins of Frontinus Street. The Arch of the Domitian is situated at the northern end of the street (hence "Northern Gate")According to the signboard placed before the Domitian gate: The Roman Proconsul of Asia, Julius Sextus Frontinus dedicated this gate to the Roman Emperor Domitian.
The Latrine
At the side of the Frontinus Street you will see a row of columns which is a part of the Latrine. According to the signboard, word for word: The building was found in a state of collapse, caused by an earthquake, that has allowed its almost complete reconstruction (I have no idea what this sentence means). The building was reached by a entrance through the two side doors. The room is divided longitudinally by a row of colums that supported a roof composed of travertine blocks. Along the two long sides ran a drain sluicing the liquids into the cloaca beneath the Frontinus Street. Along the preimeter walls may be seen the groove into which the seats with holes were fitted, and a small channed in which clean running water was available for hygiene. The paving is composed of travertine slabs that display heavy signs of wear. The construction og the building is dated to the end of the first century A.D. Its collapse is dated by the painted inscriptions found on the half-columns of its facade, that bear acclamations to the emperor Justinian. Phew!
The North Byzantine gate. The lady in yellow is standing beneath it
Signboard, my short version: This gate is a part of a fortification system built towards the end of the 4th century. There is another twin gate located at the southern end. There is a circle shape decoration which encloses a cross-like symbol and christian symbols are also found along the facade. Four large marble brackets with heads of lions, panther and a Gorgon, found in front of the gate were used as apotropaic (having the power to prevent evil/bad luck) elements to ward of evil.
Dangerous or not?
We saw this girl who climbed up the Byzantine Gate to have her picture taken. I don't think that was a smart thing to do as these are ruins and are unstable. PLus, once she started, others began to follow.
Necropolis site
The highlight of Hierapolis has to be the huge necropolis (burial) site, which is situated next to a Roman Bath. Tombs of all shapes and sizes rest in this area that stretch on for miles.
Remains of tombs. Necropolis of Hierapolis
The construction of the tombs started out as pit graves, located on the exits of the city area towards the end of the 2nd century BC. Then, it evolved to structures imitating temples and tombs with hypogean (located beneath the earth) burial chambers.
Necropolis
In the 2nd century A.C., sarcophagus were used which were raised up on steps. This funerary rite views the deceased as heroes. From the 4th century A.C. onwards, more and more land were used as burial grounds and some tombs were reused. In the 7th century, a devastating earthquake struck the area and the necropolis was abandoned, later plundered and in the following years were reused as shelter for the livestocks. (Source: signboard at Necropolis site)
Pamukkale from the car
After viewing the necropolis site, we headed back towards our boutique hotel which is really not bad, kind of like a 3 to 4 star hotel with a nice swimming pool (which we swam in the evening).
Sunset from our room's balcony
We then headed off for dinner at night in Denizli at this restaurant which specializes in everything mushroom. Every dish there (except the salad that we ate) were made out of mushrooms. I LOVE mushrooms so I was happy.
Baked cheese mushrooms
These were huge button mushrooms baked in cheese. Delicious. My only complain was that there was not enough to go around. We had another dish of mushrooms cooked with tomato and another with yoghurt.
Mushroom dessert
This was a bizzare dessert, to me at least. Since everything was about mushrooms, the dessert was also made of mushrooms which I think was stewed/cooked in syrup with a hint of lime/orange? Very strange. Not to my taste. The plate was small but we didn't finish it.
Funfair - Crazy dance ride. Woohoo!
Close-up of Crazy Dance
Nah, I didn't sit on it. On our way back to the hotel, we passed by this small funfair being held in Denizli town and we stopped. My two friends went for a ride in the Crazy Dance to the beat of disco/club music. I took pictures instead.
Ferris wheel
I guess we three girls must have made quite a sight among the locals as they were not really used to seeing Asian tourists. So much so that a couple of young guys asked to take a picture with us! And the funny thing is, I didn't see a camera with them and in the end since I was with a camera, I was the one who took the picture of them posing next to my friends! But then later, my friends told me that they had phone cameras. Ah......
Remains of a pillar. Hierapolis.
So, after the fun night, we head back to the hotel to rest for Day 8: Antalya
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